I am a great fan of Philip Harben, the first TV chef; he sounds great fun and slightly eccentric, in the nicest way. He was born in 1906 and sadly died when he was only sixty-four, however he lives on in his cookery books, and there are several videos of him on YouTube.
In the little 1946 cookery book, Cooking Quickly, in the chapter ‘Cooking quickly with no previous preparation, he gives several recipes for his version of kebabs – Turkish, beef and then the mysterious Isobar Kebabs. At the bottom of the page, I have given a list of all the kebabs on Wikipedia, which come from a large number of countries, including;
- Afghanistan
- Africa including Nigeria, South Africa
- Azerbaijan
- China
- Cyprus
- Greece
- India
- Iran
- Israel
- Japan
- Korea
- Pakistan
- Portugal
- Scotland (yes, really)
- Spain
- Turkey
- USA (various different parts, including Dakota and the Pacific Northwest)
… but nowhere is there any skewered meat dish which sounds anything like Isobar Kebabs… was it something Mr Harben made up, was it a name which he misheard or was mistranslated? Who will ever know! I looked up the word ‘isobar’ to se if it gave me a clue – it’s something to do with weather, I know that… Back to Wikipedia…
- Isobars are atoms (nuclides) of different chemical elements that have the same number of nucleons.
- Isobars are lines of equal or constant pressure on a graph, plot, or map; an isopleth or contour line of pressure. More accurately, isobars are lines drawn on a map joining places of equal average atmospheric pressure reduced to sea level for a specified period of time.
I don’t think Philip Harben meant either of those things… so here is his recipe:
- half-kidneys
- chipolata sausages (they must be the uncooked English sausage sort of chipolata, not a Frankfurter type as you will see from the method!)
- small mushrooms
- ( he also suggests you could use steak cubes, pieces of lamb, calves’ liver, bacon and so on)
Thread on a skewer half kidneys, chipolata sausages and mushrooms in this way:
- first stick the skewer through one end of a chipolata so that the other end hangs down
- Next thread the skewer through a half-kidney
- Now bring the free end of the sausage round and push the skewer through it so that the sausage wraps itself half round the kidney
- push it down to the handle end and put a small mushroom on next
- push it down to the sausage-kidney combination
- repeat with another sausage-kidney arrangement, another mushroom or a tomato maybe, and so on until the skewer is full
- grill for 10 mins
This wrapping the sausage round the kidney is not just done for fun. The two coalesce and fuse together into a very tasty combination.
I love the way at the end of the recipe without any previous mention, tomatoes are suddenly introduced!
I think kidneys might be a bit of a strong flavour for my delicate family (I love them) so I might take his streak or lamb suggestion if I were to do it – and certainly I think tomatoes would be nice!
Here is the list of names of kebabs… I’m not sure you’ll be that interested, but here it is all the same!:
- Achari Tikka
- Adana Kebabı
- Ali Paşa Kebabı
- Alinazik Kebab
- Antep Kebabı
- Bahçıvan Kebabı
- Berenj Goje Kabab
- Beykoz Kebabı
- Beyti Kebab
- Bihari Kabab
- Bihari Kebab
- Bostan Kebabı
- Boti Kebab
- Burra Kebab
- Cağ Kebabı
- Çardak Kebabı[14]
- Chapli Kebab
- Chelow Kabab
- Chenjeh Kabab
- Chicken Tikka
- Chislic
- Ciğer Kebabı
- Çökertme Kebabı
- Çöp Şiş
- Dahi Ke Kabab
- Dakkochi
- Dandeh Kebab
- Doner Kebab
- Dora Kabab
- Espetadas
- Galauti Kebab
- Galawat Kabab
- Ghaz Kabab
- Gola Kabab
- Gyros
- Hariyali Kabab
- Hariyali Kebab
- İskender Kebap
- İslim Kebabı
- Joujeh Kabab
- Kabab Bakhtiari
- Kabab Barg
- Kabab Barreh
- Kabab Chenjeh
- Kabab Digi
- Kabab Hosseini
- Kabab Isphahani
- Kabab Jigar-O Del-O Gholveh
- Kabab Kermanshahi
- Kabab Koobideh
- Kabab Kurdi
- Kabab Loghmeh
- Kabab Mahitabeh
- Kabab Memuleh B’hatzilim
- Kabab Rashti
- Kabab Shamshiri
- Kabab Shirazi
- Kabab Soltani
- Kabab Torsh
- Kabab Va Nun
- Kabab Vaziri
- Kabab-E Donbalan
- Kababe Shandiz
- Kağıt Kebabı
- Kakori Kabab
- Kalmi Kebab
- Kastoori Kebab
- Kebab Halabi
- Kebab Hindi
- Kebab Kamayeh
- Kebab Karaz
- Kebab Khashkhash
- Kebab Siniyye
- Kebab Tuhal
- Khan Kebab
- Kılıç Şiş
- Kuyu Kebabı
- Kuzu Şiş
- Kyinkyinga
- Lola Kabab
- Lyulya Kebab
- Malai Tikka
- Manisa Kebabı
- Orman Kebabı
- Paneer Kabab
- Patates Kebabı[16]
- Patlıcan Kebabı
- Pincho Moruno
- Reshami Kebab
- Reshmi Kabab
- Salmon Kebabs
- Samak Kebab
- Satay
- Seekh Kebab
- Senjeh Lebab
- Sham Kebab
- Shami Kebab
- Shami Kebab
- Shashlik
- Shawarma
- Sheftalia
- Shikampur Kabab
- Shishleek
- Şiş Kebabı
- Şiş Köfte
- Şiş Tavuk
- Sivas Kebabı
- Sonnati Kabab
- Sosatie
- Souvlaki
- Souvlaki
- Stonner Kebab
- Sutli Kebab
- Suya: Kewap
- Tandır Kebabı
- Tandoori Kebab
- Tangri Kebab
- Tas Kebap
- Tava Kebab
- Testi Kebabı
- Tire Kebabı
- Tokat Kebabı
- Urfa Kebabı
- Yakitori
I can put you out of your misery over the name ‘Isobar kebabs’. Philip Harben was the chef and manager of the Isobar – an on-site restaurant based at Lawn Road Flats in Belsize Park (also known as the Isokon building).
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Wonderful Rozelle! Thank you so much! Now I know!!!
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Philip Harben lived at flat 7 of Lawn Road Flats with his wife Katherine ca 1938-40, he was the manager of the Isobar while she was the manager of the building, until he was called up to the RAF. Turkish kebabs were on the menu and the restaurants interiors were designed by Marcel Breuer of the Bauhaus. Harben was also a member of the Half Hundred Club, a private supper club operating out of Lawn Road Flats.. His predecessor as Isobar manager was Tommi Layton, founder of Laytons Wine Merchants. The Isobar ceased in 1969. The building is Grade I listed since 1999 and contain a museum.
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Thank you Magnus, I must try and visit! Is the museum for anything in particular?
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