Mushy peas

There is nothing quite as comforting as good old fish and chips, but, in my opinion they are incomplete without mushy peas. Essentially mushy peas are dried marrowfat peas, soaked overnight and then cooked until they become mushy… and that is it… simple? … or not!

The quality of mushy peas varies from chippie to chippie (chip shop to chip shop) sometimes they are powdery and tasteless, sometimes they are sloppy and wet, sometimes they have no pea flavour at all, but good mushy peas are just the most satisfying thing imaginable, eaten with fish and chips, on a chilly winter’s night or on a beautiful blustery day beside the seaside!

Mushy peas are not ordinary garden peas cooked and mashed or blended in a mixer (no, they are not, Jamie Oliver! and no they are not nice with onion… although maybe I’ll allow you mint) And no, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, a purée of fresh or frozen peas mixed with sautéed garlic and onions and mint, garnished with chives – delicious no doubt, but not mushy peas! They are not fresh or frozen peas cooked and puréed with cream!

I’m sure everyone has their own family recipes with additions which are traditional within their grandmother’s and great-grandmother’s kitchens, but here is a simple recipe:

• 8 oz/225g dried marrowfat peas
• 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
• Salt and pepper (I like white pepper but if you prefer black that’s fine!)

Preparation:

• Place the peas in a large bowl or stock pot, enough to accommodate them expanding. Add the bicarbonate and cover with 1½ pints boiling water and stir well to ensure the bicarb has dissolved. Leave to soak overnight, or for a minimum of 12 hours.
• Drain and rinse the peas, then place in a large saucepan, cover again with cold water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer very gently for about 30 minutes or so until the peas are soft  and become  mushy.
• Season with salt and plenty of pepper to taste and serve hot with fish and chips or a tasty meat pie.