Having come across a long recipe involving many different processes to cook lettuce – blanching the poor thing, boiling it, cutting it, braising it, folding it, flattening it, glazing it and pouring gravy around it, I wondered if Mrs A.B.Marshall in her Cookery Book used it a way we would recognise, in a salad perhaps.
She offers many different salads, which seem various forms of cold vegetables – Little Salads á la Progrès which are timbales of cooked vegetables including salsify purée in aspic, Chicken Salad á la Hanson – chicken in aspic with lots of other things including olives, Salad á la Adeline which is salad vegetables with tomato mayonnaise and Little Salads á la Viennoise which is meat paste served with tomato salad… just plain dressed, seasoned tomatoes with truffle. She has one recipe involving lettuce – uncooked!!
It’s fascinating to see her using ingredients we think of as modern, fresh herbs, tarragon vinegar, chillies, paprika, olives and gherkins – plus ça change, she might have said!
Salade á la Nuremburg
- well washed crisp lettuce or endive, picked in little pieces
- crisp celery
- cooked beetroot
- Julienned strips of cucumber
- cold cooked chicken or game
- anchovy fillets
- sliced Spanish olives
- chopped eschalot (shallots)
- tarragon and chervil, chopped
- a few shreds of French red chillies
- sliced gherkins
- hard-boiled egg yolk, rubbed through a sieve
- little bunches of beetroot
- mignonette pepper (an equal mix of black and white peppercorns, ground)
- dressing – 2 raw egg yolks, salt, made mustard – 1 saltspoon each of French and English, coralline pepper (paprika), salad oil, 1 tbsp tarragon vinegar, castor sugar, ¼ pint stiffly whipped cream:- mix egg yolks, mustard, coralline pepper very well, slowly add salad oil, add tarragon vinegar slowly, pinch of sugar and fold in the whipped cream
- place lettuce or endive, celery, beetroot, cucumber, chicken or game, anchovy fillets and olives onto or into a dish or salad bowl (I’m guessing the vegetables have been sliced or cut into pieces, and ditto the meat)
- season with the mignotte pepper, pour on the dressing and mix well
- sprinkle over the eschalot, herbs. chillies, gherkins and egg
- decorate with the small bunches of beetroot
Compared to her ghastly recipe for cooked lettuce, this sounds fresh and nice, but I might be tempted to serve the dressing separately. I would also worry that the beetroot might bleed into the salad! I like the use of anchovies to give the bland chicken a lift!
I haven’t yet made this salad but the image I’m sharing is of a delicious beetroot and lime salad.