Savoury dishes afford a boundless choice

Thinking again about savouries, the small finishing off course which used to be so popular after dinner, the vestiges of which are good old bread and cheese,the liking for little savour items continues elsewhere. I’m thinking of the popularity of meze, tapas and thali which are either a starter or a snacking sort of a meal

Mrs A.B. Marshall in her practical cookery has plenty to say about them, in her rather verbose and school-marmish way. I wonder if she was anything like Fanny Craddock, without the nasty edge? She devotes a chapter to them,, as well as a section from the menus chapter in her Cookery Book. She comments first of all at how popular they are now -in the 1880@s, and then tells us that diners would be very disappointed to come to dinner and find there’s no savoury!

The number of savoury dishes, both hot and cold, as well as their variety in flavour and design, afford a boundless choice when arranging the menu. The best plan is to serve up the dish arranged in small portions, one for each guest, as the savoury is invariably handed round. Little soufflés, fondues, ramequins, canapés, beignets, &c., are very convenient and  popular  forms, though large soufflés are often preferred, and little can be said against them, as on account of their lightness it is easy for each guest to take what may be required.

It goes without saying that I should share Agnes’s recipe:

Soufflé au Parmesan

  • 2½ oz fine flour
  • 1 oz crème de riz (I think this is rice flour)
  • 3½ oz butter
  • 3 egg yolks
  • pinch of coralline pepper (paprika)
  • salt-spoon of salt
  • 1 pint cold milk
  • 2 tbsp cold milk
  • 6 oz grated Parmesan
  • 6 egg whites whipped stiff with a pinch of salt
  • browned breadcrumbs
  •  a little butter
  • grated cheese
  1. mix the flour, crème de riz, butter, egg yolks, coralline pepper, salt with the pint of cold milk
  2. add the 2 tbsp milk,Parmesan, whipped egg whites, (I would fold them in)
  3. pour into a prepared, buttered soufflé dish, with a band of buttered paper fixed round the outside to stand 3 inches above the top edge
  4. sprinkle the top with a few browned breadcrumbs
  5. bake in a moderate oven for ¾ hour
  6. when cooked, remove the paper from round the outside and serve at once
  7. a little grated cheese may be sprinkled on top if liked

This is a good dish for luncheon, or for a second course or savoury at dinner; it can also be cooked in tittle fancy cases or steamed

I confess… this is not my photo! Credit to Ymon – Monika Mesterhazy

 

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